[Tasting Note] Fratelli Alessandria 2023 Verduno Pelaverga ‘Speziale,’ Piemonte, Italy

I’ve had the pleasure of tasting various vintages of this wine, a couple of times, while in Piedmont with the guy who makes it—Vittore Alessandria. If you’re not familiar with the Pelaverga grape, you’re not alone. I barely knew it a few years ago, but I’m seeing it more and more in retails stores here in the U.S. What I love about it is how light and aromatic it is—especially alongside Piedmont’s much more famous Nebbiolo-based wines, namely Barolo and Barbaresco. Pelaverga is super light on the red grape spectrum; it’s practically see-through. Bright garnet in color, it’s all floral up front—think violet and rose—but on the palate is explodes with juicy red cherry and currant fruit. As it opens up there are hints of cinnamon and white pepper, with waves of juicy fruit and mouthwatering acidity. It punches much higher than it's weight class, as they say, especially the price: around $27 (here in the U.S.).

I tasted it again last week here in New York, where it paired beautifully with Chef Stefano Secchi’s spectacular pastas at Rezdôra. Thanks to Pelaverga’s inherent acidity, it can stand up to the richest of dishes, and still cut a clear path across the palate of mouthwatering juiciness.

History: At the northern edge of the Barolo zone, the sun-bleached, sandstone homes in the village of Verduno glow in the soft morning light. A cool breeze from the river Tanaro rustles the leaves of oak trees that border south-facing vineyards, soaking up the sun’s early rays.

The Alessandria family since the mid-19th century has called this gentle landscape home. In 1870, when the family first established their farm, calling it Fratelli Alessandria, Verduno was the center of Barolo winemaking—it was here where families first crafted dry Nebbiolo wines in the style we know today, and also bottled wines individually instead of shipping in cask. Because of this, the village was internationally recognized as the face of Barolo and sought out by collectors across the European continent.

Today, Verduno is experiencing a renaissance, and it is the “brothers” Alessandria who are guiding the wines of Verduno back to the heights they once held. It is of course a family affair—the brothers Gian Battista and Alessandro, and Alessandro’s son, Vittore, are the stewards of this generations-old estate.

What Verduno gives is exactly what we crave in our Barolo wines: complexity without heaviness, structure with finesse. The Alessandria family provides a “mirror to the landscape,” Vittore says, respecting the history of their forefathers yet “looking ahead” to ensure that what’s in each bottle reflects the true essence of Barolo from Verduno.

The red Pelaverga grape is native to Verduno; there are less than a dozen local producers who have stayed true to Verduno’s special grape. Pelaverga is at its core lively and refreshing, with tangy, red plum flavors and floral aromas. Locals like to chill Pelaverga wines slightly, better to enjoy it during the heat of the summer. Pelaverga too has a bit of a saucy side; locals say it’s a natural aphrodisiac, its spicy nature inspiring equally spicy behavior. All tank made.

Fratelli Alessandria’s Pelaverga ‘Speziale’ pairs beautifull with Chef Stefano Secchi’s rich and delicious pastas at Rezdôra in New York City.